Dan
yr Ogof - but if you don’t speak traditional Welsh - the National Showcaves
Centre for Wales is a 17-kilometre long cave system in south Wales, five miles
north of Ystradgynlais.
Now
it rains a lot in Wales so the weather was no surprise, but I have to tell you
it was really wet, I mean reallyyyy wet. Having caught the ferry from Ireland we
drove through the stunning landscape of ‘Cymru’.
The
character of the landscape was amazing and truly differs from the rest of the
UK. Ireland has rolling green hills, numerous grass strewn rolling green hills.
Scotland has mountains rubbed smooth by Ice Age glaciers long departed. The
wild weather that torments Scotland continues to wear the landscape smooth by
allowing little more than small bushes to grow. These hills are far more dramatic
than the Irish ones, though neither hold a candle to Wales. Huge craggy mountains
and rocks, more rocks than you can possibly imagine in a landscape that was
still bizarrely green. Add to this the very low clouds rolling across the landscape
and the only word I can think of that truly describes the Wales we were seeing
was ‘dramatic’.
We
drove through these hills and mountains, loving every minute of it, then
approaching Ystradgynlais we came across a sign pointing out the National
Showcaves Centre for Wales and Dinosaur Park….it was time for a break and a walk,
you know, to stretch the old legs.
A
good sign was the car park, which was large and well-manicured. Another sign
was the large fenced garden you drive past to park had an Emu in it running
about. It was a little weird seeing an Australian animal like this so far from
home. Looking at the picture when researching this article though, I’m now
pretty sure it wasn’t an Emu but a South American Rhea.
To get to the park’s entrance you have to walk under a sauropod, one of the largest outside exhibits I have ever seen. The thing was monstrous and very well made. On the other side of this meaty corridor was a large open courtyard with massive T-rex heads poking out of the bushes, along with another couple of large sauropods- Camarasaurus I’m thinking.
To get to the park’s entrance you have to walk under a sauropod, one of the largest outside exhibits I have ever seen. The thing was monstrous and very well made. On the other side of this meaty corridor was a large open courtyard with massive T-rex heads poking out of the bushes, along with another couple of large sauropods- Camarasaurus I’m thinking.
Purchasing
our tickets we were also handed rain ponchos, a good thing because they were
soon needed. This much rain keeps Wales very green, and the dinosaur park has
been situated amongst a small forest, allowing the numerous dinosaurs to be
hidden from each other…and there are numerous dinosaurs to hide, believe me.
As
we began wandering through the park the heavens opened and did not look like it
would be letting up soon, so it was on with our ponchos and ahead we forged. It’s
called a dinosaur park but really it’s full of all sorts of prehistoric
creatures.
The pond is full of ancient crocs and fish, there were plesiosaurs
and coelacanths escaping the jaws of mosasaurs and the armoured head of a Dunkleosteus. Flocks of pterosaurs fly between trees
or roost along the cliff edges that border a raging waterfall populated by
enormous amphibians.
Between trees are dinosaur families, both adults and
young, along with some truly enormous reconstructions. Raptors attack pods of
nodosaurs, while herds of pachycephalosaurs head butt each other in displays of
sexual prowess.
Amongst all these monsters are reconstructed villages, some
stone age, some depicting scenes from paleo-Wales.
One
of my favourite displays was of a large Terror Bird (Phorsuracos) hunting along
the crest of one hill. It was looking at this specific animal that it finally
hit me, I’d seen this creature before. Not a reconstruction, it was the pose that
had been haunting my memory. Zdeněk Burian was a Czech painter that was one of
the original paleo-artists. His prolific work included a nice Terror Bird
painting, and the Phorusracos standing in front of me was identical to this
painting(http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m7dhd0DHMh1rqeszyo1_1280.jpg) . With this thought in mind, as I looked about the dinosaur garden I
began to recognise many older paintings coming to life about me…in statue form.
The
path that winds past this killer bird leads to one of the more unusual things I
have seen in my travels. The park has been built around a series of caves
(supposedly some of the largest in Europe), and here you can enter one. This is
possibly one of the most visitor friendly caves I have ever been too as the
floor has been concreted smooth. There is also a small stairwell at the end of
the caves path to reach a platform where you can view the main chamber-the
stairwell of St. Pauls. This chamber has been formed by a small subterranean
lake, fed by two waterfalls whose noise echoes throughout the cave. This area
is occasionally hired out for functions and weddings, a handy use for a great
looking space.
To
originally get into this cave you have to cross a path under a strong looking
steel cage. Wales is known for its shale, and here the constant rain seems to
cause numerous rockslides. To keep people safe the park has built this cage
across the gap so people can get past safely. When we arrived the scene caught
us a little by surprise as there was about thirty people huddle under its
armoured roof and we weren’t sure why.
Heading
out there’s a small museum on site with a few fossils and more reconstructions
of life from the local region. Roman soldiers stand guard down one corridor,
while another display shows how the caves were explored.
http://www.showcaves.co.uk/index.html
After
all this dinosaur fun I wasn’t sure our day could get any better…I was wrong.
One hour away we visited the 14th century St. Pauls, an amazing
ruin and one of Wales’s great treasures. All in all I thoroughly loved Wales and am looking forward to returning one day.
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